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Photo Guide: Walking Safari in Chitwan National Park

Published

8 hours ago

January 22, 2025

Hey readers! Today I wanted to put together a post about something pretty cool that I did. Back in April, Emmett and I went on a walking safari in Chitwan National Park, Nepal. In some ways, this experience felt even more adventurous and dangerous than trekking in the Nepali Himalaya. Our safari trip had us walking around loose in the National Park through tiger, sloth bear, rhino, and wild elephant habitat! We were in a group of just four people (us + 2 guides) armed only with sticks. Luckily, despite the intimidating wildlife, we never felt unsafe. Our guides were incredibly experienced at their jobs. Our day spent exploring Chitwan National Park on foot became one of my top favorite travel moments in Nepal and one of my top favorite moments in all of my travels to date.

Instead of detailing each step of the day in a story, I’ll keep it simple and let the photos speak mostly for themselves. (As always: click a photo for more detail).

If you’re looking for info about taking one of these tours yourself, scroll all the way to the bottom for a little guide to taking a walking safari in Chitwan.

Dawn on the Narayani River.

Our guides, Raj & Sanjay, leading us through Chitwan’s sandy paths.

Tiger paw prints (left) and rhino footprints (right).

Stopping for a short breakfast in the shade, we then continued our search for some rhinos.

Found THEM! Four rhinos bathing in a pond in Chitwan National Park.

A mother rhino and baby were the last to leave.

Walking through tall elephant grass – quite unsettling at times.

(We had just watched 4 rhinos turn invisible once they’d entered the grass, and now here we were venturing into it).

Mid-day means following the schedule of the local wildlife: find a place to escape the hot sun.

Our guides led us to a shady overlook platform in the park, where we rested and refueled.

Back on safari, we set off for the wetlands to try our luck at finding wildlife that might be taking a dip.

Good thing rhinos have poor eyesight. We stayed still until this guy moved back into the brush.

This photo is only just barely zoomed in – we were crouching right behind the bush in the foreground.

the rear end of yet another rhino, retreating into the grass.

caught a glimpse of some military men training their elephants in the grasslands.

we Were excited to spot this very relaxed rhino having a casual solo dip.

…AND couldn’t resist having a photo shoot with the rhino, who we deemed “Charles” due to his distinguished nature.

Our guides had told us that it was safe for us to be in Charles’ line of sight since we were located on a riverbank about 6 feet above him. There was no way he could charge us from his bathing spot.

After Watching Charles bathe and blow bubbles in the river, he eventually stood up to make his way back to the tall grass.

End of Safari: our guides leading us through the forest on our way back to the Narayani River.

Ambling through the trees, we encountered a number of large holes dug by termite-hunting sloth bears (left) and curious rhesus macaque monkeys (right).

All the Details: Preparing for a Walking Safari in Chitwan National Park

Who we booked with:

After a bit of research and price checking around the Park town of Sauraha, we decided on United Jungle Guide Service. They have an yellow sign-clad office front towards the end of main street Sauraha. Our Walking Safari cost about 8,000 NPR (about $70 USD) for both of us for the full day. This includes the mandatory park entrance permits. Half day treks and combination walking/4WD tours are also available.
No matter who you book with, remember that there are no guarantees that you will see any wildlife. Guides will do their best to take you to spots where wildlife has been spotted before, but wild animals are going to go wherever they want. Emmett and I consider ourselves super lucky for having seen 10 rhinoceroses – our guides had only seen one with a tour the day before ours.

How to Stay safe on a walking safari:

It is absolutely essential that you remember that you will be walking through the native habitat of large predatory animals. While most tourists will probably go on a walking safari and come out safely – as we did – there is a risk that you could encounter a wild animal that could put you in danger or harm you. Tigers would not be nearly as much of a concern as sloth bears – one of the most angry and aggressive large animals in the world.
In order to stay safe, I recommend that you choose a reputable guide/ guide service. United Jungle Service was not only well reviewed but one of our two guides was actually one of the park’s most experienced and had been leading walking tours for decades.
For an example of the potential dangers of a walking safari: please read Walk My World’s account of a horrific encounter with sloth bears. Let this make you wary but also remember that this is an unusual encounter. Emmett and I did not see a single sloth bear on our walk.
If you are scared at all (like I definitely was) ask your guides for your own large stick so that you can join them in yelling and pounding the ground with a stick to scare off aggressive wildlife.
Only do a walking safari if you are in relatively good physical condition. We were out all day in the hot sun, walking nearly constantly for up to four hours on and off. You want to be capable of a quick sprint as well, as you may have to run from a charging rhino to a nearby tree.

What to wear on a walking safari in chitwan:

Light-weight, moisture-wicking clothes. It is gonna be hot.
Sturdy hiking shoes. A heavy duty sneaker could also work. Your shoes will get dirty.
Pants! Long pants are the best way to protect your legs from bugs and other critters in the tall grass.
For women: you’re definitely going to want a quality sports bra.
Sunscreen and a sunhat. A large part of our walking safari took place in direct sunlight and we were grateful we had slathered on plenty of sunscreen. I did not have a hat, but wished that I did.

what to bring on Your walking Safari:

Your guide service will likely remind you of this but bring plenty of water. Chitwan National Park reaches tropical temperatures and the sun felt blazingly hot. Hydration is really important on your walk.
Courage! I had to muster up quite a bit of it after reading Walk My World’s post. (See above).
Pack snacks and/or something for lunch. If you take a full day tour, you will stop multiple times with a chance to re-fuel. We bought a bag of chickpea snacks to share and also packed some samosas we’d bought from a street vendor the day before.
Bring money to tip your guides. Raj & Sanjay did a fantastic job keeping us safe and were fun to hang out with to boot. We gave them both a couple thousand NPRs as a thank you.
Check the weather forecast. It is worth bringing a rain poncho with you if you plan to be out for the whole day.
Sunscreen. You will definitely want to reapply to avoid burning whilst out in the bush.

would you go walking around in the grasslands on a walking safari, hoping for a glimpse of wildlife?

let me know if you have any questions or thoughts in the comments below.

Did you know that you can go on #safari in #Nepal?? We spent a day on safari in Chitwan National Park & saw TEN wild rhinos. It was pretty epic, to say the least! Read all about how cool (and scary!) it was here: https://t.co/LWOf1cApy7 #backpacking #FemaleTravelBloggers #travel pic.twitter.com/IISKx0JZrR

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A Few Days In Asheville, NC

Published

7 hours ago

January 22, 2025

Mark Rober

Asheville is a beacon of arts and culture nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains of northern North Carolina. I’ve been fortunate to visit Asheville numerous times over the past decade. Thus, I feel prepared to share my advice on how to spend a few days in Asheville.

Things to Do in Asheville

1. Drive the Blue Ridge Parkway

Emmett overlooks Tanbark Ridge outside of Asheville; June 2018

The Blue Ridge Parkway is a scenic American road and the longest linear park in the United States. Asheville is in close proximity to the Blue Ridge Parkway, which makes for a nice afternoon spent taking in the beautiful rolling mountains visible just off the Parkway.

2. Catch Some Live Music

The Grey Eagle; Asheville, NC; June 2016

Asheville has many venues for live music. In fact, it seems that just about every large restaurant in town has a live band on the weekends. There are a few specific music venues such as The Orange Peel, The Grey Eagle, Asheville Music Hall, and Salvage Station. In 2016, Emmett and I joined some friends at The Grey Eagle to catch King Gizzard & The Lizard Wizard and The Murlocs. It was a fantastic show and the venue was the perfect size – it was not too big and still easy to get close to the band.

Stu Mackenzie of King Gizzard & the Lizard Wizard at The Grey Eagle in Asheville; 2016.

King Gizzard & the Lizard Wizard plays at The Grey Eagle in Asheville; 2016.

3. Go Shopping

Asheville Emporium; October 2021

Asheville is an exciting shopping destination with a little something for everybody and every budget. Some favorite shops of mine have been Asheville Emporium and Mast General Store for souvenirs, Malaprop’s Bookstore and Firestorm Co-op for all things book, and Voltage Records or Citizen Vinyl for records. There are also a plethora of vintage stores and counterculture shops selling incense, soaps, and gemstones.

Gemstones for sale; Asheville; October 2021

4. Take a Pubcycle Tour

Our tour guide, CJ, Suzi, Liz, Allison, and me on an Amazing Pubcycle Tour; October 2021

A company called Amazing Pubcycle offers fun, cycle tours of Asheville where you can bring your own adult beverages. In 2021, for my close friend Liz’s 30th birthday, my pals and I took an Amazing Pubcycle “Mixer Pub Tour” one evening. Our charming tour guide showed us the sights of downtown Asheville and we stopped off at a pub for half an hour for additional drinks. While cycling and touring on either end of our excursion, our tour guide took requests on the sound system. We ended the night singing “My Heart Will Go On” by Celine Dion at the top of our lungs alongside the other folks who cycled that night. It was a very fun time.

5. Visit the Biltmore Estate

The Biltmore Estate; June 2018

The Biltmore Estate is a Gilded Age mansion built in the late 19th century outside of Asheville. Buying a day pass to visit the grounds allows visitors to tour the interior of the Estate as well as the fabulous onsite gardens/greenhouse and the Biltmore Estate Winery. Fans of architecture and extravagance will enjoy a day at the Biltmore.

Billiards room at Biltmore; June 2018

Biltmore Greenhouse; June 2018

Biltmore Estate Winery; June 2018

6. Catch a Drag Show at Scandals

Established in 1980, Scandals Nightclub is Asheville’s oldest dance club. And it’s a gay club with an established dancefloor and two nightly drag shows on the weekend. The drag performers are fantastically talented and their costumes are incredible. For a fun night out on the town, I highly recommend Scandals for dancing and drag.

Where to Eat in Asheville

Brunch

Grit cake stack at Early Girl Eatery in Asheville; October 2021

Early Girl Eatery

Locations: 8 Wall St.; 444 Haywood Rd. #101; 1378 Hendersonville Rd. Ste A

Recommendation: Organic Heirloom Grit Cake Stack.

Biscuit Head

Locations: 417 Biltmore Ave, Ste 4F; 733 Haywood Rd.; 994 Hendersonville Rd

Recommendations: Fried Green Tomatoes, Sweet Potato Coconut Gravy, and any jams from the jam bar.

Eggs benedict biscuit; Biscuit Head; June 2018

Lunch/Dinner

White Duck Taco Shop

Locations: 388 Riverside Drive & 12 Biltmore Avenue.

Recommendations: Banh Mi Tofu Tacos, Mushroom Potato Romesco Tacos. Housemade Sangria.

Wasabi Japanese Restaurant

Location: 19 Broadway St.

Recommendations: Veggie Gyoza, Vegetable & Tofu Pan Fried Udon.

Vegetable Tofu Pan Fried Udon; Wasabi Restaurant; October 2021

Dessert

Double D’s Coffee & Desserts; October 2021

Double D’s Coffee & Desserts

Location: 41 Biltmore Ave.

Recommendations: Chai Latte, Fruit smoothies.

French Broad Chocolate Factory

Locations: 10 S Pack Square; 821 Riverside Drive.

Recommendations: Housemade chocolate ice cream or milkshakes.

Vegan Chocolate Ice Cream at French Broad Chocolate Factory; October 2021

Where to Drink in Asheville

Breweries

Emmett, my Dad, and my brother Dylan at Sierra Nevada; June 2018

Sierra Nevada

Sierra Nevada’s Mills River, NC Taproom is about 25 minutes from downtown Asheville. It’s an enormous campus with brewery tours, a restaurant, live music, and a “back porch” with a scenic woodsy view.

Allison, me, Liz, and Suzi at New Belgium; October 2021

New Belgium

Located on 21 Craven Street in Asheville, New Belgium is a family and cyclist-friendly campus. There is no onsite restaurant; instead there are several food trucks in residence to satiate your hunger.

Wicked Weed Brewpub; October 2021

Wicked Weed Brewpub

Located on 91 Biltmore Ave, Wicked Weed Brewpub features a tasting room and a New American restaurant.

Twin Leaf Craft Brewery; October 2021

Twin Leaf

An independent craft brewery located at 144 Coxe Avenue. Twin Leaf focuses on “brewing classic Belgian, English, and American style ales, while maintaining a rotating line up of Lagers, IPAs, Sours, and other adventurous styles.”

Bars

Ben’s Tune-Up Asheville; October 2021

Ben’s Tune-Up

195 Hilliard Avenue.

A converted auto shop featuring a beer & sake garden.

Top of the Monk

92 Patton Avenue.

A speakeasy-esque rooftop bar featuring handcrafted cocktails.

An apple cider cocktail at Grove Park Inn; October 2021

Sunset Cocktail Terrace at the Grove Park Inn

The Omni Grove Park Inn; 290 Macon Avenue

Go for the cocktails, stay for the incredible views. We went at the end of October just in time to catch some fall foliage on the Blue Ridge in the distance.

Where to Stay in Asheville

Hostel

Bon Paul & Sharky’s Hostel; June 2016

Bon Paul & Sharky’s Hostel

816 Haywood Rd.

Asheville’s only backpacker’s hostel. Incredibly comfy beds, plenty of porch sitting available. Dorms and private rooms.

AirBnB

CJ & Suzi feeding horses outside of our Asheville AirBnB; October 2021

Asheville has many, many AirBnB options. Take a look on their website.

Hotels

Omni Grove Park Inn; Oct 2021

View from Omni Grove Park Inn; Oct 2021

Omni Grove Park Inn

$$$ — 290 Macon Ave

Courtyard by Marriott Asheville Biltmore Village

$$ — 26 Meadow Rd.

I love Asheville & my friends; October 2021

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Two Days In Malaysia’s Tea Country

Published

7 hours ago

January 22, 2025

Mark Rober

Early this year, I stumbled upon a few photos of beautiful, rolling emerald tea plantations while browsing the web. Imagine my delight when I discovered that those photos were from a place called the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Emmett and I were only a few months away from our own planned trip to Malaysia – how perfect! So, a few months later (after Singapore and a stop-over in Malacca) we found ourselves on a long bus ride to the much cooler climes of the Cameron Highlands.

It was dusk when we arrived in Tanah Rata, one of the few towns sprinkled throughout the Highlands region. Just before the bus stopped, we got a quick glimpse of those same photogenic tea hills outside of town, further peaking our interest. We checked into our hostel and then arranged for a sort of “best of” tour of the Cameron Highlands for first thing the next day.

Day One – Eco Half Day Tour with Discover Camerons

A First Look at Those Famous Highland Rolling Tea Hills

At 7 AM the next morning, we were greeted outside of our hostel by our guide for the day, Appu from Discover Camerons. After a very friendly welcome, Appu ushered us to the Malaysian army-issue jeep which was to be our ride for the day. We made small talk with our groupmates as the jeep ascended into the hills. And then, there we were: finally walking into those pictures I’d seen a few months back. I have never seen such beautiful man-made countryside.

Appu picked a tea stem for us to describe which types of tea can be created from which particular leaves. White tea, for instance, is from the tiny uppermost leaves (also known as buds) on the stems because they are the most tender. He also gave us a brief overview of the history of tea harvesting – it used to all be picked by hand in the Cameron Highlands but nowadays is picked by a machine due to high demand.

The Mossy Forest

The upper reaches of the cloud forest at “Mossy Forest.”

Next on our agenda was a very bumpy, 4WD-only ride up to the area known as “the Mossy Forest.” After we’d parked, Appu took our group aside to show us native flora. We only had to walk 30 seconds down the road we’d come in on to see delicate tiny pitcher plants on the mossy ground; there were even bigger ones dangling from an overhead branch.

From there, our group strolled along a short 15 minute boardwalk through the namesake forest. Inside the tree cover, it was quite serene and indeed very mossy. I particularly enjoyed trying to spot the small orchids for which the region is famous. There was bummer of a moment though. Our group stumbled upon a trio of guys who had walked completely off of the designated boardwalk and were tromping all over the fragile and ecologically-important moss. Each one of us told them in turns to please not walk there because it is environmentally destructive. The three of them laughed and took their sweet time leaving, leisurely snapping photographs of themselves with a mossy background behind.

Know Before You Go: Bring a raincoat or a light sweater. The Mossy Forest is on a mountaintop and is quite chilly and often rainy.
DO NOT be like those guys we saw who walked off-track. The barriers are there so that you can enjoy looking at the beautiful forest without destroying it.

Exploring BOH Tea Plantation

Emmett and I soaking up those picture perfect views – photo taken by Appu.

Appu is a photographer and he was sure to take our group to all of the best roadside views on our way to the BOH plantation, our third destination. Appu even took a few photos of each one of us in the group posing in front of the tea hills. In this day and age, it sometimes feels like having someone who actually volunteers without asking to take a photo for you at a beautiful foreign destination is a dream come true. Thanks, Appu!

After our impromptu photoshoot, the group dispersed to explore the facilities at BOH. There was an insanely long queue of people waiting to order to tea to drink on the viewing platform over the valley (see below). It did look like a lovely place to sip tea but we decided to skip it to have more time to explore. First, we hit up the gift shop and got some small packages of tea to take home. The shop had a ton of tea in a huge variety of flavors and types but we stuck to small packs of black loose leaf since they were the most backpack-friendly.

Once we’d left the gift shop, we walked through a hallway detailing the history of BOH as a company and it’s popularity as a tea brand among Malaysians. (Spoiler: it’s still quite popular). We then walked through the factory and watched the workers process the tea. As an avid tea drinker, seeing the factory at work may have been my favorite part… solely because the whole place smelled like fresh tea leaves. Yum!

Thanks Appu!

Leaving the BOH plantation signified the end of our tour with Discover Camerons. We had such a great time – I’d say that it was definitely one of the top tours we’ve ever done abroad. Appu taught us so much about the environment of the Highlands, tea processing, and more. It was wonderful to have such a personable guide and our group was the perfect size. If you’re looking to support a local tour company and have a fun time exploring Cameron Highlands – choose Discover Camerons.

Day Two – Jungle Hiking and The Ultimate Tea Time

To Gunung Jasar / Jungle Walk No. 10

Tanah Rata is surrounded by jungle-covered peaks, so taking a short hike through the jungle is pretty much a must-do. There are a ton of trails in the Highlands but they’re all pretty simply named “jungle walk number ___.” Our hostel had a map of all of the trails but it was still pretty obscure. We ultimately just decided to do Jungle Walk Number 10 merely because it was close to our accommodation and one of the shorter hikes in the area. Starting just beyond some apartment buildings, Jungle Trail 10 began as a carved dirt hillside and then turned into a lush green forest with terraced tree roots acting as an impromptu staircase. The dense overhanging trees shaded us from a quick rain storm and we stopped briefly to listen to the call to prayer echo across the valley.

The trees cleared a bit later as we reached a concrete cell tower platform, and we were afforded views of both the tangle of buildings in Tanah Rata and a series of hazy wave-like peaks. I could almost imagine what it must have looked like pre-development.

The walk back down the other side was full of singing cicadas, clearer signs than at the start, and more sun-obscuring jungle. The trail ended near a commercial farm and we were able to hitch-hike back to Tanah Rata once we met a road.

Stunning Views and Delicious Tea at Cameron Valley Plantation

Even though we had already seen some gorgeous views at BOH the day before, we still had not yet had our fill of tea plantation views. (It was our whole reason for coming after all)! We hitch-hiked with a friend from our hostel about 10 minutes out of Tanah Rata to Cameron Valley plantation. BOH tea plantation had been beautiful. But Cameron Valley was STUNNING. For just 10 Malaysian Ringitt each, we walked out into the plantation on our own just to soak up the sun-dappled hills. After an hour of strolling between the hills, we decided to enjoy the views from above this time – at the Cameron Valley teahouse over a pot of strawberry tea. It was definitely one of the most magazine-ready sights I have ever seen. Take a look for yourself:

Now that we’ve been to the Highlands, if I had to recommend just one tea plantation to visit for views and atmosphere alone, it would be Cameron Valley. Without a doubt.

Know Before You Go:
+ Cameron Valley is open from 8:30 AM to 6 PM on weekdays and 8:30 AM to 7 PM on weekends.
+ It costs 2 MYR to enter the plantation and walk independently. (They do also offer 20 minute golf cart tours for 10 MYR).
+ Go in the afternoon just before closing for the best light for photo-snapping and to avoid earlier crowds.

I think Cameron Highlands may have been the first place I’ve visited solely based on photographs. I’m glad that our visit did not disappoint, and I would gladly go back to spend more time exploring the surrounding forests… And maybe to see a rafflesia.

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Malacca, Malaysia in Photos

Published

7 hours ago

January 22, 2025

Mark Rober

Malacca is a city on the southwest coast of the Malay peninsula. Once a Sumatran kingdom, Malacca has been occupied by Portugal, England, and the Netherlands. Nowadays, it is most well known for it’s historic colonial era buildings and it’s UNESCO World Heritage certified Chinatown.

Though only in the city for a little over 24 hours, I was quite impressed with how unique this sometimes-gaudy tourist destination turned out to be. Whether it’s the colonial ruins, neon-bedecked rickshaws, floral tiles, temples, or tiny shrines – Malacca is incredibly photogenic.

Details and Design

Colonial Ruins

Walking along the old Dutch fort along the Melaka river.

Multicultural Temples

Jonker Street Night Market

Located in Malacca’s Chinatown, Jonker Street is the main tourist thoroughfare and also host to a large and bustling night market on weekends. We were lucky enough to be in Malacca on a Friday evening and managed to snag a few street eats, though there wasn’t much vege-friendly fare.